Melissa Ramirez is a jewelry designer and founder of Ural Studio. Hailing from Puerto Rico, she draws inspiration from the architectural elements of the island’s houses. Alisha Negron-Cruz, a sales associate in NMWA’s Museum Shop, spoke with Ramirez about memory, inspiration, and how she preserves her history and culture, one piece of jewelry at a time.
Shop Ural necklaces, earrings, and bracelets in NMWA’s Museum Shop.
What was your inspiration for Ural?
Ural was born from my memories of my abuela’s house. Her house was on Calle Ural, a street in Río Piedras, Puerto Rico. During this time, my grandparents began their own business selling Cuban gold-filled jewelry and clothing made by my abuela. This instilled in me a love for jewelry and a deep appreciation for craftsmanship and the stories that objects can tell. Designing jewelry is a way to honor those memories and to continue the legacy my grandparents began.
How does Puerto Rican culture and heritage influence your designs?
Puerto Rico is the foundation of everything I create and do, even in my other roles as a grant writer and doctoral student. My designs are deeply rooted in shared, collective memories that evoke the essence of our island’s history and traditions. The Reja Criolla collection draws inspiration from the intricate ornamental ironwork that once adorned the homes of Puerto Rico. Through my jewelry and work, I aim to preserve these cultural artifacts and the memories they hold, transforming them into wearable art that connects the past with the present.
Can you describe a particular piece that has a special meaning to you?
Two designs stand out for me personally: the Ural and Puerta a mi corazón. The Ural pendant is a tribute to my abuela’s house and the memories we shared there. It’s a symbol of the legacy she passed on to me. The Puerta a mi corazón design represents my connection to my Guatemalan heritage through my father. It bridges two cultures, embodying both my Puerto Rican upbringing and my Guatemalan roots.
Can you tell us more about designing the Puerta a mi corazón necklace?
I wanted to honor my late father and our heritage. During my last visit to Guatemala, I was struck by the similarities between the rejas (grilles) in Guatemala and those in Puerto Rico. As I explored the town of Antigua, I came across a stunning ornamental door that resonated deeply with me. That was the moment I knew this design would become part of my collection. This design also honors Guatemalan craftsmanship, and I visited Talleres Santa Rosa, a century-old ornamental iron workshop to learn more about the hand-forged ironwork process. This experience solidified my connection to this design, transforming it into a door straight to my heart (puerta a mi corazón).
What role does jewelry play in expressing identity and culture?
It’s a timeless medium, and in the context of Puerto Rican traditions, it is a way to carry our heritage with us every day. Jewelry allows us to immortalize collective memories and transform them into personal symbols that resonate with individuals and communities alike. It’s a celebration of our roots, an expression of who we are, and a way to keep our traditions alive.
If you were designing a piece of jewelry inspired by the work of a woman artist, who would you choose and why?
I’m deeply inspired by the work of women artists, especially those from Latin America and the Caribbean. I’ve been studying two Cuban artists, Amelia Peláez and Ana Mendieta. Their styles resonate with me and remind me of different elements and stories from my upbringing in a multicultural immigrant family. I’ve been working on some designs inspired by their artworks for a new collection that will be coming soon—stay tuned!